Nike: Form Follows Motion — The first major exhibition on the design history of the world's largest sports brand

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Since September 21, 2024 and until May 18, 2025, the Vitra Design Museum in Weil am Rhein has dedicated a comprehensive exhibition to the world's largest sports brand Nike entitled “Nike: Form Follows Motion.”

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Installationsansicht »Nike: Form Follows Motion« © Vitra Design Museum, Foto: Bernhard Strauss
Nike: Form Follows Motion © Vitra Design Museum, photo: Bernhard Strauss

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This extraordinary exhibition highlights the impressive development of the company — from a local start-up in the 1960s to a global phenomenon whose influence extends far beyond the world of sport.

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Nike: Form Follows Motion © Vitra Design Museum, Grafik: Daniel Streat, Visual Fields
Nike: Form Follows Motion © Vitra Design Museum, graphics: Daniel Streat, Visual Fields

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Curated by Glenn Adamson, an internationally renowned design historian, the exhibition shows how Nike has shaped the world of sports and popular culture through innovative designs, material research and creative collaboration with athletes and artists.

The show builds on last summer full of major sporting events such as the Olympic and Paralympic Games in Paris and the European Football Championships in Germany.

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Installation view »Nike: Form Follows Motion« © Vitra Design Museum Photo: Bernhard Strauss
Installation view” Nike: Form Follows Motion “© Vitra Design Museum Photo: Bernhard Strauss

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Nike was founded in 1972 by Phil Knight and Bill Bowerman and was named after the Greek goddess of victory. With groundbreaking designs and a strong brand, the company grew into the world's largest clothing company with annual sales of over 50 billion US dollars.

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Installation view »Nike: Form Follows Motion« © Vitra Design Museum Photo: Bernhard Strauss
Installation view” Nike: Form Follows Motion “© Vitra Design Museum Photo: Bernhard Strauss

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Design played a key role in this: products such as the Waffle Trainer, Air Force 1 or the Air sole became icons that were recognized far beyond sport. For the first time, the exhibition features a curated selection of exhibits from the company's own Department of Nike Archives (DNA), which comprises more than 200,000 objects.

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Drawing of the original Swoosh Design, Carolyn Davidson, 1972 © Nike, Inc
Drawing of the original Swoosh design, Carolyn Davidson, 1972 © Nike, Inc.

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From prototypes to original drawings to historical films, the exhibition provides a fascinating insight into the company's design history and innovative culture. The exhibition is divided into four subject areas:

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Track:

‍The first section highlights Nike's origins.

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Installation view »Nike: Form Follows Motion« © Vitra Design Museum Photo: Bernhard Strauss
Installation view” Nike: Form Follows Motion “© Vitra Design Museum Photo: Bernhard Strauss

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Installation view »Nike: Form Follows Motion« © Vitra Design Museum Photo: Bernhard Strauss
Installation view” Nike: Form Follows Motion “© Vitra Design Museum Photo: Bernhard Strauss

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Key moments can be seen, such as the development of the first waffle sole by Bowerman in his kitchen and the collaboration with the “Tigerbelles,” a team of black female athletes who were among Nike's first cooperation partners.

Early close collaboration with athletes shaped Nike's design philosophy right from the start.

»Nike Sport Shoes« poster, featuring Tennessee State Tigerbelles, 1978 © Nike, Inc.
“Nike Sport Shoes” poster featuring the Tennessee State Tigerbelles, 1978 © Nike, Inc.

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Nike Oregon Waffle Trainer, 1973 © Nike, Inc., photo: Jeff Johnson
Nike Oregon waffle trainer, 1973 © Nike, Inc., photo: Jeff Johnson

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Nike Moon Shoe, Handmade by Bill Bowerman as one of the first shoes with Nike’s waffle sole, 1972 © Vitra Design Museum, photo: Unruh Jones
Nike Moon Shoe, handmade by Bill Bowerman as one of the first shoes with the Nike waffle sole, 1972 © Vitra Design Museum, photo: Unruh Jones

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Nike Windrunner Jacket of the US team at the Olympic Games in Moscow, 1980 © Vitra Design Museum, photo: Unruh Jones
Windrunner jacket from the US team at the Olympic Games in Moscow, 1980 © Vitra Design Museum, photo: Unruh Jones

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Steve Prefontaine at the Pac-8 Championships, Eugene (USA), 1973 © Nike, Inc., photo: Jeff Johnson
Steve Prefontaine at the Pac-8 Championships, Eugene (USA), 1973© Nike, Inc., photo: Jeff Johnson

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Phil Knight and Bill Giampetro at first Nike plant in Exeter (USA), 1974 © Nike, Inc.
Phil Knight and Bill Giampetro at the first Nike factory in Exeter (USA), 1974 © Nike, Inc.
Nike Chain Link Track and Field WarmUp, 1976 © Vitra Design Museum, photo: Unruh Jones
Athletics outfit with variations of the Nike logo, 1976 © Vitra Design Museum, photo: Unruh Jones
Athletics West Singlet, 1977 © Vitra Design Museum, photo: Unruh Jones
Jersey, Athletics West, 1977 © Vitra Design Museum, photo: Unruh Jones

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»Hot Waffles for Sale« poster, featuring Nike Waffle Trainers, 1978 © Nike, Inc.
“Hot Waffles for Sale” poster featuring the Nike Waffle Trainers, 1978 © Nike, Inc.

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First apparel line, framed collage, Diane Katz, 1979 © Vitra Design Museum, photo: Unruh Jones
Design for the first clothing line, framed collage, Diane Katz, 1979 © Vitra Design Museum, photo: Unruh Jones
Vulcan Last made by Bill Bowerman, 1980 © Vitra Design Museum, photo: Unruh Jones
Shoe rack made by Bill Bowerman, 1980 © Vitra Design Museum, photo: Unruh Jones

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Publicity shot of Bill Bowerman in his workshop at the Eugene Lab, 1980 © Nike, Inc.
Commercial shot of Bill Bowerman in his workshop at Eugene Lab, 1980 © Nike, Inc.

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Air: 

The second section documents the 1980s, when Nike celebrated its international breakthrough with the development of the Air Sole.

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Installation view »Nike: Form Follows Motion« © Vitra Design Museum Photo: Bernhard Strauss
Installation view” Nike: Form Follows Motion “© Vitra Design Museum Photo: Bernhard Strauss

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Installation view »Nike: Form Follows Motion« © Vitra Design Museum Photo: Bernhard Strauss
Installation view” Nike: Form Follows Motion “© Vitra Design Museum Photo: Bernhard Strauss

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Installation view »Nike: Form Follows Motion« © Vitra Design Museum Photo: Bernhard Strauss
Installation view” Nike: Form Follows Motion “© Vitra Design Museum Photo: Bernhard Strauss

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The technology was made visible in 1987 with the Air Max and became a trademark.

Collaborations with sports icons such as Michael Jordan and Serena Williams as well as the brand's influence on pop culture through iconic commercials are at the heart of this area.

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Sketch of Air Max, Tinker Hatfield, 1986 © Nike, Inc.
Nike Air Max, drawing, Tinker Hatfield, 1986 © Nike, Inc.

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»On Your Feet or In Your Face« poster, Nike Air Force, 1986 © Nike, Inc.
On Your Feet or In Your Face, poster featuring Nike Air Force, 1986 © Nike, Inc.

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Andre Agassi wins the Wimbledon Championships, 1992 © Getty Images, photo: Chris Smith/Popperfoto
Andre Agassi wins Wimbledon, 1992 © Getty Images, photo: Chris Smith/Popperfoto

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Swoosh Hat, worn and signed by Andre Agassi, 1996 © Nike, Inc.
Swoosh cap worn and signed by Andre Agassi, 1996 © Nike, Inc.
Production elements for Foamposite Basketball Shoe, 1997 © Vitra Design Museum, photo: Unruh Jones
Production parts for the Foamposite Basketball Shoe, 1997 © Vitra Design Museum, photo: Unruh Jones

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Cathy Freeman winning gold in the Women’s 400m Final at the Olympic Games in Sydney, 2000 © Getty Images, photo: Billy Stickland/Allsport
Cathy Freeman wins gold in the women's 400 meter final at the Sydney Olympics, 2000 © Getty Images, Billy Stickland /Allsport

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Serena Williams, US Open, New York, 2004 © Getty Images, photo: Clive Brunskill
Serena Williams, US Open, New York, 2004 © Getty Images, photo: Clive Brunskill

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Studded Tank made for Serena Williams for the US Open, 2004 © Vitra Design Museum, photo: Unruh Jones
Studded top for Serena Williams, USOpen, New York, 2004 © Vitra Design Museum, photo: Unruh Jones

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Shelly-Ann Fraser-Pryce at the Nike Sport Research Lab, Beaverton (Oregon), 2014 © Nike, Inc.
Shelly-Ann Fraser-Pryce at Nike Sports Research Lab, Beaverton, Oregon, 2014 © Nike, Inc.

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»Zoom Vaporfly Elite« poster, with Eliud Kipchoge attempting to break the 2-hour marathon barrier, »Breaking2«, 2017 © From the campaign: »The Barrier Just Got That Much Closer«, Nike, Inc.
“Zoom Vaporfly Elite,” poster with Eliud Kipchoge trying to beat the 2-hour marathon mark, “Breaking2,” 2017 © From the campaign: “The Barrier Just Got That Much Closer,” Nike, Inc.

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Endurance Test Track, Nike Sport Research Lab, Beaverton (Oregon), 2022 © Nike, Inc.
Test track, Nike Sports Research Lab, Beaverton, Oregon, 2022 © Nike, Inc.

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LeBron James full-size basketball court, Nike Sport Research Lab, Beaverton (Oregon), 2022 © Nike, Inc.
LeBron James Basketball Court, Nike Sports Research Lab, Beaverton, Oregon, 2022 © Nike, Inc.

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Various lasts, jigs, silicon pads and fixtures, Advanced Product Creation Center (APCC), Beaverton, Oregon, 2024 © Nike, Inc., photo: Alastair Philip Wiper
Various shoe strips, stencils and silicone pads, Advanced Product Creation Center (APCC), Beaverton, Oregon, 2024 © Nike, Inc., photo: Alastair Philip Wiper

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Tabletop covered with objects from Frank Rudy who invented the Air Technology, Department of Nike Archives (DNA), Beaverton, Oregon, 2024 © Nike, Inc., photo: Alastair Philip Wiper
Table top with objects by Frank Rudy, the inventor of air technology, Department of Nike Archives (DNA), Beaverton, Oregon, 2024 © Nike, Inc., photo: Alastair Philip Wiper

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Bodysuit, LeBron James Innovation Center, Beaverton, Oregon, 2024 © Nike, Inc., photo: Alastair Philip Wiper
Suit, LeBron James Innovation Center, Beaverton, Oregon, 2024 © Nike, Inc., photo: Alastair Philip Wiper

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Vacuum-forming machine, Advanced Product Creation Center (APCC), Beaverton, Oregon, 2024 © Nike, Inc., photo: Alastair Philip Wiper
Vacuum machine, Advanced Product Creation Center (APCC), Beaverton, Oregon, 2024 © Nike, Inc., photo: Alastair Philip Wiper

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‍Sensation:

‍Starting in the 1990s, the focus shifted to sensors and sustainability.

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Installation view »Nike: Form Follows Motion« © Vitra Design Museum Photo: Bernhard Strauss
Installation view” Nike: Form Follows Motion “© Vitra Design Museum Photo: Bernhard Strauss

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Installation view »Nike: Form Follows Motion« © Vitra Design Museum Photo: Bernhard Strauss
Installation view” Nike: Form Follows Motion “© Vitra Design Museum Photo: Bernhard Strauss

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Installation view »Nike: Form Follows Motion« © Vitra Design Museum Photo: Bernhard Strauss
Installation view” Nike: Form Follows Motion “© Vitra Design Museum Photo: Bernhard Strauss

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The Nike Sport Research Lab (NSRL) produced groundbreaking innovations such as the Nike Free Series and the Vaporfly, while sustainable materials such as Flyknit and recycling projects such as Nike Grind paved the way for greener production.

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Nike VaporMax Air Bag, 2016 © Nike, Inc.
Nike VaporMax Air Bag, 2016 © Nike, Inc.

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UV oven inside the Advanced Product Creation Center (APCC), Beaverton, Oregon, 2024 © Nike, Inc., photo: Alastair Philip Wiper
UV oven at Advanced Product Creation Center (APCC), Beaverton, Oregon, 2024 © Nike, Inc., photo: Alastair Philip Wiper

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Nike Space Hippie 03, 2020 © Vitra Design Museum, photo: Unruh Jones
Nike Space Hippie 03, 2020 © Vitra Design Museum, photo: Unruh Jones

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Detail of Nike Space Hippie 03, 2020 © Vitra Design Museum, photo: Unruh Jones
Nike Space Hippie 03, detailed view, 2020 © Vitra Design Museum, photo: Unruh Jones

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Flywire Prototype, appr. 2006 © Vitra Design Museum, photo: Unruh Jones
Nike Flywire prototype, around 2006 © Vitra Design Museum, photo: Unruh Jones

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Detail of Flywire Prototype, appr. 2006 © Vitra Design Museum, photo: Unruh Jones
Nike Flywire prototype, detailed view, around 2006 © Vitra Design Museum, photo: Unruh Jones

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Sketches for Nike Victory Swim Collection, 2019 © Nike, Inc.
Drawing for the” Nike Victory Swim “collection, 2019 © Nike, Inc.

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Early Mechanical Shox Prototype, 1981 © Nike, Inc.
Early mechanical prototype, Nike Shox, 1981 © Nike, Inc.

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3D grown shoe from the experimental series »The Nature of Motion«, Nikita Troufanov, 2016 © Nike, Inc.
3D-printed Nike shoe from the experimental series “The Nature of Motion”, Nikita Troufanov, 2016 © Nike, Inc.

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‍Relation:
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The fourth section explores the cultural significance of Nike in youth culture and the collaboration with creatives such as Virgil Abloh, Hella Jongerius, Marc Newson, and Comme des Garçons.

Topics such as diversity, inclusion and the role of sneaker culture in social media are also discussed.

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Installation view »Nike: Form Follows Motion« © Vitra Design Museum Photo: Bernhard Strauss
Installation view” Nike: Form Follows Motion “© Vitra Design Museum Photo: Bernhard Strauss

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Installation view »Nike: Form Follows Motion« © Vitra Design Museum Photo: Bernhard Strauss
Installation view” Nike: Form Follows Motion “© Vitra Design Museum Photo: Bernhard Strauss

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Installation view »Nike: Form Follows Motion« © Vitra Design Museum Photo: Bernhard Strauss
Installation view” Nike: Form Follows Motion “© Vitra Design Museum Photo: Bernhard Strauss

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Nike Premier x Comme des Garçons, 2021 © Vitra Design Museum, photo: Unruh Jones
Nike Premier x Comme des Garçons, 2021 © Vitra Design Museum, photo: Unruh Jones

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Curator Glenn Adamson highlights that Nike has not only shaped the design world, but also social discourses around body ideals, gender roles, and community.

The exhibition explores how Nike has moved from a focus on performance to a wider mission that includes topics such as self-expression, participation, and sustainability.

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Documents wait to be refiled at the Department of Nike Archives (DNA), Beaverton, Oregon, 2024 © Nike, Inc., photo: Alastair Philip Wiper
Archival materials at the Department of Nike Archives (DNA), Beaverton, Oregon, 2024 © Nike, Inc., photo: Alastair Philip Wiper

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Rolling stacks, Department of Nike Archives (DNA), Beaverton, Oregon, 2024 © Nike, Inc., photo: Alastair Philip Wiper
View of the Department of Nike Archives (DNA), Beaverton, Oregon, 2024 © Nike, Inc., photo: Alastair Philip Wiper

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View into the Department of Nike Archives (DNA), Beaverton, Oregon, 2024 © Nike, Inc., photo: Alastair Philip Wiper
View of the corridors of the Department of Nike Archives (DNA), Beaverton, Oregon, 2024© Nike, Inc., photo: Alastair Philip Wiper

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Installation view »Nike: Form Follows Motion« © Vitra Design Museum Photo: Bernhard Strauss
Installation view” Nike: Form Follows Motion “© Vitra Design Museum Photo: Bernhard Strauss

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Installation view »Nike: Form Follows Motion« © Vitra Design Museum Photo: Bernhard Strauss
Installation view” Nike: Form Follows Motion “© Vitra Design Museum Photo: Bernhard Strauss

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The exhibition is accompanied by an extensive program of workshops and events that deepen the connection between sport and design. A richly illustrated catalog, which contains essays and around 300 illustrations, documents the exhibition and Nike's innovations.

Edited by Mateo Kries and Glenn Adamson, the catalog is published with a recycled seaweed cover and offers in-depth insights into the company's design studios and production processes.

The exhibition “Nike: Form Follows Motion” runs until May 18, 2025 at the Vitra Design Museum in Weil am Rhein.

For more information, visit the museum's website at www.design-museum.de.

address:
Vitra Design Museum
Charles-Eames-Strasse 2
79576 Weil am Rhein

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Vitra Design Museum »Nike: Form Follows Motion« © Vitra Design Museum Photo: Bernhard Strauss
Exterior view of the Vitra Design Museum “Nike: Form Follows Motion” © Vitra Design Museum Photo: Bernhard Strauss

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Photos via Vitra Design Museum