"He told me, We are going to make basketball shoes, but you must not tell my parents."

adidas Superstar OG - 1970

Horst Dassler with brothers Clifford and Chris Severn at the 1965 National Sporting Goods Association Show in Chicago

adidas France Head Office in the 1970s

“He fell in love with basketball,” Severn remembered. “He told me, we are going to make basketball shoes, but you must not tell my parents.”
The Dasslers had dismissed basketball as a minor sport. So Horst, then just 23, built the project in secret at adidas France.

Horst Dassler in front of a portrait of his father, Adi Dassler

Development took years. “We made prototypes one at a time and I tested them all myself,”  said Severn.

Drawing on the silhouette and technical DNA of the Olympiade training shoe, they adapted features like the padded tongue and introduced a herringbone-pattern sole — originally developed for grip in all-purpose training — to serve the faster, more aggressive movements of basketball. 

adidas Olympiade - "Halt ohne Druck"

They also added a reinforced heel cup and — crucially — a single-piece molded rubber sole, known as the dish sole, designed to stop separation under high stress.

Even that wasn’t enough: “It wasn’t until we took the shoes to a shoemaker and had him stitch around the outer edge of the sole. Strange as this may sound, that tiny little thread held the shoe together.”

adidas Supergrip - 1965

adidas Supergrip Prototype - 1963

Design of the Shell Toe - Technical Drawing - 1969

From that foundation, the Superstar emerged — not just as an improvement, but as a statement. Building on the lessons of the Supergrip, it featured a sleeker silhouette, a cleaner upper, and a more intentional design language.

It was lighter and more structured, refined not only for function but for aesthetic clarity. The name alone signaled ambition:
This was not just another performance shoe — it was adidas’ bid for relevance on American courts and beyond.

adidas Product Catalog - 1970

adidas Product Catalog - 1972

Yet the market didn’t immediately understand it. Distributors scoffed at the price. “They said they were too expensive, and we should make canvas shoes,” Severn recalled. He responded by seeding pairs directly to players. His big breakthrough came with John Block of the San Diego Rockets, a new NBA team desperate for an edge.

Block loved the shoes. “I wore it everywhere. When I played, it felt like I was quicker, faster, and could jump higher,” he said. “I never sprained my ankle once in those years.” Eventually, the entire Rockets team wore them, and adidas gained instant visibility.

NBA rookies from the San Diego Rockets wearing the original Supergrip shoes. John Block is seen wearing jersey number 34.

Soon, more teams followed. By the mid-1970s, adidas held a 75% market share in professional basketball shoes. The Superstar became not only a performance standard but also a custom favorite. Players requested suede uppers, color variations, and alternate toe configurations: No shell, half shell, or full.

Wild Style - 1983 - VHS

Krush Groove - 1985 - Japanese Laserdisc

It wasn’t just about wearing sneakers — it was about how you wore them. Fat laces, custom-painted stripes, uncreased uppers, and straight-laced tongues-out styling turned the Superstar into a personal canvas.

Rare colorways were hunted down like trophies, and owning a pair could make you a target — getting mugged for your Superstars was a real risk in some neighborhoods.

Rock Steady Crew

During a Madison Square Garden show, RUN-D.M.C. famously asked the crowd to raise their sneakers in the air. Thousands lifted their Superstars, and adidas execs in the audience saw it for what it was: a cultural moment.

The result was a historic endorsement deal — the first between a musical group and a sportswear company. It included a custom model, the Ultrastar, and an apparel line. More than a sponsorship, it was the official recognition that music, identity, and sneakers were now fully intertwined.

adidas Ultrastar Run D.M.C.

Tougher Than Leather: Run D.M.C.

adidas Ultrastar

Run D.M.C. and Posse - Queens NY - 1984

Run-D.M.C. brings hip-hop to American Bandstand - 1986

Run-D.M.C. and the Beastie Boys on the roof of B. Smith's, 47th & 8th, NYC - 1987

"There's so many important values that by Run-DMC wearing and repping those sneakers, people want to be part of."
"When you put those sneakers on, it's not about the product itself, it's about the person with those sneakers on, hip-hop has given us the confidence to be enthusiastic about who you are."

– Joseph Simmons aka. Run-DMC's Rev Run (2024)

adidas Superstar signed by Run D.M.C. - Darryl McDaniels (D.M.C.), Joseph Simmons (Run) and Jason Mizell (Jam Master Jay)

Futura 2000 and Dondi White, London - 1982

MC Shy-D - Got To Be Tough - Album Cover - 1987

Madonna - 1983

adidas Century - Made in France - 1980s

The Superstar arrived late in the UK. adidas’ local distributor Umbro focused on other models like the Supergrip, and when a version of the Superstar did eventually appear in 1978, it lacked the shell toe and used synthetic leather.

Still, the shoe captured imaginations. In the late ’80s, London’s cult streetwear boutique The Duffer of St. George sourced deadstock Superstars from dusty U.S. basements and resold them as premium vintage.

Club kids snapped them up, making them a part of the Acid House uniform. Inspired by early b-boy style, sneaker obsessives faked shell toes by dyeing stripes on adidas Century models or even scratching lines into the rubber to emulate the look.

As breakdance films like Beat Street and Breakin’ crossed the Atlantic, a cultural hunger grew — one that turned even approximations of the Superstar into status symbols.

The Superstar arrived late in the UK. adidas’ local distributor Umbro focused on other models like the Supergrip, and when a version of the Superstar did eventually appear in 1978, it lacked the shell toe and used synthetic leather.

Still, the shoe captured imaginations. In the late ’80s, London’s cult streetwear boutique The Duffer of St. George sourced deadstock Superstars from dusty U.S. basements and resold them as premium vintage.

Club kids snapped them up, making them a part of the Acid House uniform. Inspired by early b-boy style, sneaker obsessives faked shell toes by dyeing stripes on adidas Century models or even scratching lines into the rubber to emulate the look.

adidas Superstar - 1980s

adidas Superstar - 1985

The Superstar’s versatility allowed it to transcend cultures, climates, and styles, becoming a universal symbol with local interpretations. In Japan, the Superstar reached near-mythical status in the 1990s, with collectors chasing exclusive French- and U.S.-made versions and region-specific releases in glossy patent leather and camo.

In Germany, the Superstar remained tied to its American roots until hip-hop helped reintroduce it locally.

In France, deadstock hunting and niche fashion communities kept it alive.

And in Australia, skaters embraced it for its durability and grip — long before it became a fashion staple. In Italy, it became part of a tailored street-luxury crossover that anticipated the sneaker culture of today.

KoЯn

adidas reissued classic models and introduced the Superstar 2, a comfort-first update with extra padding in the tongue and ankle collar.

But it wasn’t just about staying true to form — it was about pushing it further. Suddenly, the Superstar appeared in denim, canvas, and faux animal prints. The shoe’s minimal architecture and iconic shape made it a natural canvas for experimentation.

Kate Moss

This reinvention found one of its most dynamic expressions in Japan, where a deep appreciation for vintage Americana collided with futuristic fashion.

By the late ’90s, the Superstar had reemerged not just as a throwback, but as a platform for experimentation and self-expression.

Tokyo’s sneakerheads embraced bold reinterpretations in patent leather, camouflage, and reflective vinyl — often exclusive to the Japanese market and unattainable elsewhere.

The shoe’s timeless shape and visual clarity gave it credibility across continents, from underground collectors to forward-thinking stylists.

adidas Superstar - 1995

adidas Superstar - 2000

Liam Gallagher - Oasis

Beverly Hills Cop III - 1994

NIGO

Even Hollywood played a part in cementing the Superstar’s cultural status:

After stepping out in the adidas Country in Beverly Hills Cop and the Conference Low in Beverly Hills Cop II, Eddie Murphy laced up a pair of Superstars in Beverly Hills Cop III - a cinematic footnote that reflected the Superstar’s unmistakable place in 1990s popular culture.

Hiroshi Fujiwara

adidas Superstar LX - 2002

Eddie Murphy

adidas Superstar - German Mailorder Catalog - 1990s

adidas Superstar 35th Anniversary "Masterpiece" aka. "Top Secret"

adidas Superstar 35th Anniversary "Masterpiece" aka. "Top Secret"

adidas x BAPE Super Ape Star - 2003

A few designs were also released in scaled-down “Mini Superstar” editions — playful collectibles that mirrored select styles from the Anniversary Series.

adidas Super Ape Star, Superstar 80s

A defining moment in adidas’ evolving streetwear narrative came when Gary Aspden, a longtime adidas consultant known for shaping the Originals line, was introduced to Japanese designer Kazuki Kuraishi by musician Ian Brown at Fuji Rock Festival in 2000.

Kuraishi, a graphic designer for the pioneering Japanese label A Bathing Ape (BAPE), shared Aspden’s deep obsession with sneaker culture and subcultural style - as later recalled in the Superstar 50th Anniversary Book.

What began as friendly exchanges and product support for the BAPE football team soon evolved into plans for a collaboration — one that would alter the trajectory of sneaker marketing.The project was challenging from the start.

adidas had never collaborated with a streetwear brand before. There were no internal systems to greenlight such a project, and approval required navigating headquarters in Germany and BAPE’s highly curated image. But persistence paid off.Released in 2003, the Super Ape Star brought BAPE’s now-iconic camouflage print—personally championed by the brand’s founder, Nigo — and its irreverent design language to the classic Superstar silhouette.

As one of the most influential figures in early 2000s streetwear, Nigo's involvement gave the project instant credibility among fashion insiders and collectors alike. Released in very limited numbers and available only in select boutiques, the Super Ape Star became an instant streetwear grail.

It not only placed adidas at the center of the sneaker-fashion conversation but also marked the beginning of a new, more collaborative direction — one that would soon materialize as the Consortium model.

adidas reissued classic models and introduced the Superstar 2, a comfort-first update with extra padding in the tongue and ankle collar.

But it wasn’t just about staying true to form — it was about pushing it further.

Suddenly, the Superstar appeared in denim, canvas, and faux animal prints. The shoe’s minimal architecture and iconic shape made it a natural canvas for experimentation.

adidas Originals x BAPE Superstar 80s 'B-Sides'

adidas Super Ape Star - 2003

Missy Elliot - Photo also used on the Cover of the Gossip Folks Single - Fun Fact: The bus driver at the end of the music video is DMC from Run-D.M.C.  

adidas Originals x Missy Elliot Remix Boot

adidas Superstar 35th Anniversary "Perfed"

1st adidas Consortium Series Logo

The Consortium Series blended adidas-led concepts with occasional co-designed releases from select sneaker stores, who also served as exclusive retail partners.

Another impactful voice in that era was Missy Elliott. In 2004, she became the first female artist to sign a major endorsement deal with adidas, launching her Respect M.E. collection.

Alongside apparel, the line included bold, expressive takes on the Superstar — featuring glossy finishes, metallic accents, and unapologetically loud styling.

As part of the Music Series, Missy helped position the Superstar as a platform for women in hip-hop and beyond, proving it could be just as bold, versatile, and powerful as her voice.

In 2005, adidas also teamed up with German luxury label MCM on a special edition of the Pro Model — a high-top sibling of the Superstar—combining heritage basketball design with premium fashion detailing.

adidas x MCM Pro Model Vin

2005’s 35th Anniversary of the Superstar marked a turning point in how adidas engaged with culture. The celebration was organized around a set of themed sub-collections that highlighted different aspects of the Superstar’s cultural resonance:

The celebration was organized around a set of themed sub-collections that highlighted different aspects of the Superstar’s cultural resonance.

The Consortium Series featured collaborations with influential boutiques and partners such as Adi Dassler, Footpatrol, Tate, Undefeated, Union, Neighborhood, and D-Mop.

The Expression Series showcased artistic reinterpretations from creatives like Andy Warhol, Captain Tsubasa, Lee Quinones, Project Playground, Disney, Adicolor, and Upper Playground.

The Music Series paid tribute to iconic artists and labels connected to the Superstar’s legacy, including RUN-D.M.C., Ian Brown, Red Hot Chili Peppers, Roc-A-Fella, Underworld, Bad Boy, and Missy Elliott.

The City Series honored seven influential metropolises — Berlin, London, Paris, New York, Boston, Tokyo, and Buenos Aires — each with a distinct design.

Lastly, the Anniversary Editions celebrated the Superstar’s design heritage through special releases like Etched White, Etched Black, Monogram Strip, Perfed, Suede, Graphic and Top Secret.

adidas Superstar 35th Anniversary Collection

The Top Secret model was never released for sale. Instead, it was part of an elaborate scavenger hunt across five cities — Berlin, London, New York, Los Angeles, and Hong Kong.

Participants used clues from adidas’ website to locate culturally significant sites tied to Superstar collaborators, then brought photographic proof to an adidas Originals store to earn a "Golden Ticket."

Only 35 fans worldwide received an invitation to a secret launch event, where seven briefcases sat locked on a stage. If the last three digits on a fan’s Golden Ticket matched the combination, the case popped open — revealing a pair of ultra-rare Superstar #35s inside.

Presented in a white leather briefcase with gold locks, the Top Secret model stood as a tribute to the global and cultural impact of the Superstar, accessible only to a lucky few.

adidas Superstar 35th Anniversary "Run D.M.C." Mini

Unlike traditional product strategies with big-box retailers, this initiative blended adidas' in-house concepts with interpretations by leading sneaker boutiques, cultural tastemakers, and adidas' own creative teams.

Holistic concepts like this were also explored in later collections such as Materials of the World and Flavors of the World — ambitious projects that unified multiple sneaker releases under cohesive, globally inspired themes.

adidas Superstar II "Kermit" - 2011

adidas Superstar Ostrich - early 2000s

adidas Superstar 'Swarovski'

adidas Originals x Mastermind Superstar - 2013

adidas x Jeremy Scott Superstar 80s Ripple 'Dots'

Claudia Schiffer - German ZEITmagazin 40th Anniversary - 2010

Pharrell’s 2015 Supercolor series offered the Superstar in 50 vibrant tones, bringing this collaborative spirit to a wider audience.

Around the same time, Mark Gonzales reimagined the shell toe with a blank white pair and four colored pens — inviting wearers to make the shoe their own and merging skate, art, and sneaker DIY culture.

In a rare departure from footwear, adidas Consortium also released a limited-edition Superstar-inspired watch — featuring shell toe detailing, a sole-textured dial, and Swiss analog movement, produced in just 500 numbered pieces.

adidas Consortium ADH 1969 - Limited Edition Superstar Watch

In 2020, adidas also extended the Superstar’s visual language to other classic silhouettes.

The Rivalry Low, Stan Smith, Adilette and ZX 8000 were reimagined through the lens of the shell-toe icon, the latter appearing as part of the revived A-ZX Series.

These reinterpretations paid tribute to the Superstar’s enduring design codes while bridging eras of adidas innovation.

adidas Originals ZX 8000 'Superstar'

adidas Originals Rivalry Low 'Superstar'

adidas Originals Stan Smith 'Superstar'

adidas Originals Adilette 'Superstar'